So, we sailed along the southern coast of Spain from Almeria, and wow, it was dramatic! It’s really rugged with these huge mountains just dropping right into the ocean. The colors are fascinating, loads of black, white, and burnt orange tones. The land is super arid, and the vegetation looks dry and sunburnt. The only signs of life from years ago were these forts perched way up on each mountain top.Anchorages are few and far between here, but we did spot this quaint little one with just three boats and a tiny beach tucked under some magnificent black cliffs surrounding the bay.
We kept going, and the landscape didn’t change much until we arrived at our anchorage for the night in the late afternoon.That spot was another quaint little beach! There was a cool cave in some really white rocks off to the right, and we saw some structures. Turns out they were beach bars, plus there were ruins of a castle and other buildings high up in the mountain. A few tourist boats came by, stayed for a bit, and then left again. We ended up having a total of four boats anchored there for the night.
Imagine looking through binoculars there and realizing geez, some people on the beach and even our neighbors on their boat were totally naked! Then we looked up at the mountain and saw caves, little buildings, and faint paths where people were walking. That’s when it clicked – people actually lived in those caves and other spots.
So, this place is called San Pedro cove, and it’s tucked away right in the heart of the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park in Almería province. There’s been a hippie community living there for decades, maybe about 50 people, and they pretty much live cut off from everyone else. They make a living by crafting things out of leather and shells and selling food and drinks to the tourists who show up. They’ve built their own homes right there using local stuff like rock, wood, cane, and bricks, whether it’s down on the beach, deeper in the valley, or up on the mountain. They’re completely self-sufficient, thanks to a natural spring that gives them fresh water, which they even use to water the vegetable gardens they eat from.
It’s kind of cool because it’s known as a ‘free beach’, not specifically a nudist beach. So you’ll see people swimming both naked and wearing bathing suits – whatever feels right!
Honestly, it’s one of the most beautiful beaches in Andalusia. It totally feels like a tropical paradise, with a valley that has a fresh water spring and tons of greenery, all surrounded by these majestic cliffs. The sand is super fine, the water is that amazing turquoise blue, and the entry is easy and shallow, which makes swimming a breeze.
Against the mountain are the ruins of an ancient fortress: the Castle of San Pedro. It is believed to have been built in the late 15th century in order to guard the coast from Moorish attacks after the Reconquest of the Catholic Monarchs. In the 16th century a tower was added and in the 17th century the castle was used as a prison. At present it is abandoned but is probably used to accommodate locals as well as tourists during the summer months.
This little slice of paradise is only accessible by walking or by boat. There’s a parking lot at the end of a dirt road about 2 kilometers away, and then you follow a footpath along the cliffside down to the beach. During the summer months, tourists will actually bring tents and camp out on the beach to get a taste of this alternative lifestyle, even if it’s just for a couple of weeks. It’s pretty special because it’s one of the very few true hippie settlements still around in Spain.